SUKE SUKE : The Emperor's New Fabrics with Cirrus silk, salt shrinking
Internationally renowned NUNO textile design studio presents: ULTRA-SHEER, filmy wisps of transparency. By definition, sukesuke fabrics all have see-through qualities. As if that made them easier to appreciate! With sukesuke fabrics, what you see is not what you get―only a small part of it.
乱雲Nimbus silk / salt shrinking
Long before virtual reality, dematerialization represented the ultimate challenge: how to weave down to nothingness? An undertaking fraught with difficulty, this ambivalent androgeny of craft, erasing itself yet leaving the form of its own negation in spidery threads of pure idea, appeals to both the most transcendant spiritual aspirations and the most sensual desires. Angelic robes of gossamer of revealing libertine nightdown, with hardly a stitch of hesitation between.
層雲Stratus silk / salt shrinking
Surprisingly complex in conception and execution, NUNO’s ‘little things’ all differ in unseen ways, often involving revolutionary new materials and techniques. Whether buoyed with air pockets of folded with feathers, physical lightness must ‘hold up to light’. Clarity and translucency must be structured unobtrusivery, invisibly. All of which calls for more technical sophistication than meets the eyes. Like the ‘Emperor’s New Crothes’, if you can appreciate the beauty that’s almost not there, than aren’t you the clever one indeed!
バブルパックBubble Pack silk / salt shrinking
Enshuku or ‘salt shrinking’ is a time-honoured Japanese technique for finishing crepe silk and other textured fabrics, soaking them in a neutral pH saline solution to reduce the fibers to the desired density. Originally seawater was used, but effects tended to be unstable; today, however, calcium chloride or calcium nitrate afford more precise control.
クレタの玩具Mock-Minoan silk / salt shrinking
NUNO adapted this method to create suke suke fabrics. We apply dye-resist patterns onto silk, then immerse it in calcium nitrate solution that attacks the exposed areas, causing them to shrink dramatically; the resist-coated areas remain unaffected. Many unusual textures―everything from bubble-pack plastic wrap to molted snakeskin―can be realised using this chameleon chemistry on different resist patterns.
- Whisteria Maiden
- Comme des Garçons