2024/05/10

Elizabeth Andoh: A Taste of Culture – Funky Fermented Fish Sauce


The world’s oldest known cookbook, “The Art of Cooking,” attributed to Marcus Gavius Apicius (AD 14–37) contains a “recipe” for garum, a funky fish sauce made by layering fatty fish with salt and packing the mix in clay pots. When set in the hot sun for several months, the contents of the pots fermented. The fermented mash, in turn, was strained resulting in a deeply-flavored, amber-colored liquid the Romans called garum. At the time, garum was an indispensable seasoning used in making all manner of dishes.

Throughout Asia similar fish sauces have been produced for thousands of years. It is unclear whether these Asian sauces were independent “discoveries” or whether they were influenced by travel along the ancient Silk Road trade routes connecting Eurasia and North Africa. Or, perhaps the Romans carried garum with them as they conquered territory in Western Asia. Within Asia, China was likely the source of “inspiration” for Viet Nam’s nuoc mam, Thailand’s nam pla. Cambodia’s tik trei and Korea’s aekjeot.

What about Japan? It boasts three kinds of gyoshō (fermented fish sauce), each hailing from a different part of the archipelago, all using locally available and abundant fish and seafood. 

The Tohoku region’s Akita Prefecture is home to SHOTTSURU, where hatahata (Japanese sandfish) is plentiful. 

Kagawa Prefecture on the Inland Sea is home to IKANAGO-SHŌYU. This deeply-flavored sauce is made from tiny ikanago(Japanese sand lance), a local delicacy.

Ishikawa Prefecture’s Noto Peninsula is home to two similar sauces: ISHIRI (made from squid) and ISHIRU (from sardines). 

Visit my KITCHEN CULTURE Blog to learn more about Japan’s Funky Fish Sauces. 


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Elizabeth Andoh A Taste of Culture Culinary Arts Program Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 158-0095, Japan

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